Photograph © Jane Woolfenden
Extract from The Urban Sea: Cities of the Mediterranean
'The cities around the shores of the Mediterranean are like sentinels, looking out to sea but also guarding their respective hinterlands. They are invariably old places, with histories often extending over millennia rather than mere centuries. Moreover, from classical times they have been on the frontline of most of what has happened in the region. Little has passed them by. Some of the stories they have to tell are quite extraordinary and all are eventful. Particular cities have at times changed the course of history, whether through the conquest of rival states or encouragement of scientific discovery and artistic endeavour. In other cases, and at other times, cities have themselves been at the receiving end of change, coming under foreign occupation and forcibly turned towards new paths of development. Either way, their respective histories are inextricably linked to the changing fortunes of the Mediterranean as a whole. That is why the first chapter provides an overview of the region, showing the integral place of cities and how they have been shaped by their location at the crossroads of three of the world's continents. The Mediterranean, it will be seen, is at once a blessed home for its cities as well as one of recurring crisis; the best of all worlds but also the worst. With this duality in mind, it is time to set forth on a long journey around the largely landlocked waters...
'Our journey starts in Gibraltar, at the very entrance to the inner sea, with the Mediterranean on one side and the Atlantic on the other. The main settlement on 'the Rock' is least of all like a city but, if only because of its strategic location, it offers a natural beginning for a voyage of this sort. From Gibraltar, heading east along the coast of Spain, we then alight on Alicante. Together with its neighbouring settlements, it tells vividly of the impact of incoming tourists and 'retirees' from northern Europe, a modern episode layered over a long and varied history that has not always been benign. Next, into France and to Marseille, modern and vibrant, a fascinating place that is European in character combined with the influence of longstanding links to North Africa. In many ways, it has successfully blended past and present, Europe and Africa, to become one of the most dynamic cities in the modern Mediterranean.
'After Marseille, one crosses the plains of northern Italy to Trieste, still bearing the hallmarks of historic ties with Central Europe in its imperial heyday and with more than a whisper of Slavic cultures to the east. If only because of its unique pedigree, it is a cuckoo in the Mediterranean nest, too good to miss. Following the coastline southwards to Croatia, we next stop at Dubrovnik, once with its own commercial empire a rival even to mighty Venice. Like the latter, however, Dubrovnik is now set in aspic, its imperial pretensions long past and resigned instead to the gaze of a steady stream of tourists attracted by an iconic townscape. Then south-eastwards to northern Greece, and to Thessaloniki, inextricably linked to its Balkan neighbours and for long under Ottoman rule. For most of its history it was known as Salonica and was home to large communities of Jews, Muslims and Christians. For centuries they lived peaceably side by side, until two tragic episodes in the twentieth century brought that all to a violent end.
'From Europe to the eastern Mediterranean, known more exotically as the Levant, we stop first in Izmir. Formerly Smyrna, it prospered as an important port for the Ottoman Empire. In its heyday, its mixed population was treated with tolerance and it was only in the twentieth century that ethnic differences became an issue that threatened its future. In an episode that mirrored the fate of Salonica, the Greek citizens of Smyrna were forced to leave in terrible circumstances. Leaving behind this tale of human tragedy, we then make our way to Beirut - only to find that there is no relief here, for the city itself is a watchword for modern conflicts. Once the 'Paris of the Mediterranean', Beirut offers a classic example of the twin processes of war and reconstruction, and today is still finely poised between the two. For geopolitical reasons, an Israeli city is also a 'must' and Haifa, an ancient port with a modern role, reveals much of contemporary as well as past interest. Not least of all, Haifa shows how world politics can suddenly and dramatically change a city's realm of influence - in this case, truncating a once extensive hinterland that extended deep into Iraq.
'Beyond Israel, the trail takes us westwards to the Arab states along the fringes of the Sahara, following the path of seventh-century soldiers bearing the message of Islam. This stretch of the journey starts in Egypt with Alexandria, its very name enough to lure any traveller who wishes to delve into a seemingly timeless past, although now offering little to remind one of its days of glory. Further west, between the sea and the sands of the Sahara, is Tripoli. Like many of its Mediterranean counterparts, the city has been conquered repeatedly by invading forces, until the coming of Libyan independence and the start of a new and volatile chapter in its history. Then there is Tunis, a city of the Maghreb, once overshadowed by neighbouring Carthage and, much later, colonized by the French. These three cities have each featured in recent struggles in the region - the episode that was dubbed (at least at the outset) as the Arab Spring.
'Finally, no odyssey of the Mediterranean can be complete without venturing seawards to its islands. From the many venues that could be chosen, ferries are taken to three - to Sicily, Malta and Cyprus. Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean and Syracuse was once not only its capital but one of the great cities of the region. Now it languishes in a backwater, largely overtaken by events which favoured its Sicilian rivals, surrounded by relics from the past. Just a short journey to the east takes us to Malta and to its capital Valletta. In Mediterranean terms this is a young city - founded as recently as the sixteenth century. Yet in spite of its relatively short history, it can tell of tempestuous events as well as offering a modern lesson that small can indeed be beautiful. Valletta is, indeed, one of the treats in store. For our last visit we travel further east, to the conflict-ridden island of Cyprus, with its segregated communities of Turks and Greeks. In the interior is the divided city of Nicosia, demonstrating all too vividly timeworn differences between Islam and Christianity, East and West.
'Having largely encircled the Mediterranean, it will be time to reflect on the experience. This is not just a question of looking back, and the theme of the final piece, 'Arab Spring, European Winter', is intended to signify that the region is one of continuing drama. The full impact of contemporary political and economic events is not yet known.
'Mediterranean cities have never been far from the eye of the storm, nor are they now. Yet always in the past a parting of the clouds has eventually given way to new vistas. There is no crystal ball to foretell what might yet emerge, but in seeking to chart a way forward the collective evidence of these fifteen cities can at least offer a sense of perspective.'
Introduction, pp. 2-5.
'The cities around the shores of the Mediterranean are like sentinels, looking out to sea but also guarding their respective hinterlands. They are invariably old places, with histories often extending over millennia rather than mere centuries. Moreover, from classical times they have been on the frontline of most of what has happened in the region. Little has passed them by. Some of the stories they have to tell are quite extraordinary and all are eventful. Particular cities have at times changed the course of history, whether through the conquest of rival states or encouragement of scientific discovery and artistic endeavour. In other cases, and at other times, cities have themselves been at the receiving end of change, coming under foreign occupation and forcibly turned towards new paths of development. Either way, their respective histories are inextricably linked to the changing fortunes of the Mediterranean as a whole. That is why the first chapter provides an overview of the region, showing the integral place of cities and how they have been shaped by their location at the crossroads of three of the world's continents. The Mediterranean, it will be seen, is at once a blessed home for its cities as well as one of recurring crisis; the best of all worlds but also the worst. With this duality in mind, it is time to set forth on a long journey around the largely landlocked waters...
'Our journey starts in Gibraltar, at the very entrance to the inner sea, with the Mediterranean on one side and the Atlantic on the other. The main settlement on 'the Rock' is least of all like a city but, if only because of its strategic location, it offers a natural beginning for a voyage of this sort. From Gibraltar, heading east along the coast of Spain, we then alight on Alicante. Together with its neighbouring settlements, it tells vividly of the impact of incoming tourists and 'retirees' from northern Europe, a modern episode layered over a long and varied history that has not always been benign. Next, into France and to Marseille, modern and vibrant, a fascinating place that is European in character combined with the influence of longstanding links to North Africa. In many ways, it has successfully blended past and present, Europe and Africa, to become one of the most dynamic cities in the modern Mediterranean.
'After Marseille, one crosses the plains of northern Italy to Trieste, still bearing the hallmarks of historic ties with Central Europe in its imperial heyday and with more than a whisper of Slavic cultures to the east. If only because of its unique pedigree, it is a cuckoo in the Mediterranean nest, too good to miss. Following the coastline southwards to Croatia, we next stop at Dubrovnik, once with its own commercial empire a rival even to mighty Venice. Like the latter, however, Dubrovnik is now set in aspic, its imperial pretensions long past and resigned instead to the gaze of a steady stream of tourists attracted by an iconic townscape. Then south-eastwards to northern Greece, and to Thessaloniki, inextricably linked to its Balkan neighbours and for long under Ottoman rule. For most of its history it was known as Salonica and was home to large communities of Jews, Muslims and Christians. For centuries they lived peaceably side by side, until two tragic episodes in the twentieth century brought that all to a violent end.
'From Europe to the eastern Mediterranean, known more exotically as the Levant, we stop first in Izmir. Formerly Smyrna, it prospered as an important port for the Ottoman Empire. In its heyday, its mixed population was treated with tolerance and it was only in the twentieth century that ethnic differences became an issue that threatened its future. In an episode that mirrored the fate of Salonica, the Greek citizens of Smyrna were forced to leave in terrible circumstances. Leaving behind this tale of human tragedy, we then make our way to Beirut - only to find that there is no relief here, for the city itself is a watchword for modern conflicts. Once the 'Paris of the Mediterranean', Beirut offers a classic example of the twin processes of war and reconstruction, and today is still finely poised between the two. For geopolitical reasons, an Israeli city is also a 'must' and Haifa, an ancient port with a modern role, reveals much of contemporary as well as past interest. Not least of all, Haifa shows how world politics can suddenly and dramatically change a city's realm of influence - in this case, truncating a once extensive hinterland that extended deep into Iraq.
'Beyond Israel, the trail takes us westwards to the Arab states along the fringes of the Sahara, following the path of seventh-century soldiers bearing the message of Islam. This stretch of the journey starts in Egypt with Alexandria, its very name enough to lure any traveller who wishes to delve into a seemingly timeless past, although now offering little to remind one of its days of glory. Further west, between the sea and the sands of the Sahara, is Tripoli. Like many of its Mediterranean counterparts, the city has been conquered repeatedly by invading forces, until the coming of Libyan independence and the start of a new and volatile chapter in its history. Then there is Tunis, a city of the Maghreb, once overshadowed by neighbouring Carthage and, much later, colonized by the French. These three cities have each featured in recent struggles in the region - the episode that was dubbed (at least at the outset) as the Arab Spring.
'Finally, no odyssey of the Mediterranean can be complete without venturing seawards to its islands. From the many venues that could be chosen, ferries are taken to three - to Sicily, Malta and Cyprus. Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean and Syracuse was once not only its capital but one of the great cities of the region. Now it languishes in a backwater, largely overtaken by events which favoured its Sicilian rivals, surrounded by relics from the past. Just a short journey to the east takes us to Malta and to its capital Valletta. In Mediterranean terms this is a young city - founded as recently as the sixteenth century. Yet in spite of its relatively short history, it can tell of tempestuous events as well as offering a modern lesson that small can indeed be beautiful. Valletta is, indeed, one of the treats in store. For our last visit we travel further east, to the conflict-ridden island of Cyprus, with its segregated communities of Turks and Greeks. In the interior is the divided city of Nicosia, demonstrating all too vividly timeworn differences between Islam and Christianity, East and West.
'Having largely encircled the Mediterranean, it will be time to reflect on the experience. This is not just a question of looking back, and the theme of the final piece, 'Arab Spring, European Winter', is intended to signify that the region is one of continuing drama. The full impact of contemporary political and economic events is not yet known.
'Mediterranean cities have never been far from the eye of the storm, nor are they now. Yet always in the past a parting of the clouds has eventually given way to new vistas. There is no crystal ball to foretell what might yet emerge, but in seeking to chart a way forward the collective evidence of these fifteen cities can at least offer a sense of perspective.'
Introduction, pp. 2-5.
